Pig9r

What exactly is Triumph telling the dealers? Because if they are not listening to their own dealer network I'm not sure they would pay too much attention to a hand full or individual bike owners. Maybe if there was some sort of unified campaign?

Surely if there are several bikes that are 'unfixable' for lack of a better term, they would address the problem or at least send some factory people out to look at the ones in the UK that have the problem.

Flyingdoc

Well, I don't mean to get lawyers for the law part... But, some of them can write really poetically and yet be very persuasive. I totally agree: friendly is the way to go... But, i really do think that to be able to make a point we have to have solid numbers. Case reports won't get triumph working on this problem...

Yes, if we all agree that this is the way to go, i''d me more then happy to put time in this issue...

THE PUNISHER

I have been out messing around with my bike in the shed(it shitty weather here)
Now if you take off the bear claw you will see this or some thing similar


and if you look even closer,up towards the radiator you will see this

Now there is a nut on the end of the shaft

I undone the nut and removed the washer and spring and also a plastic rocker.I then stretched the spring a little.
Then I slipped the spring on and a small washer and then the plastic rocker.I then pushed the idle arm back on and done up the nut just far enough that it will lock on.
My bike now will start and idle at about 1000rpm and drop back to about 600rpm.Best thing is it will start now and not stall.Fucken Yi PEE

I no this is not a proper fix but while it works and until Triumph get off there arse and do some thing about this prob I will be sticking with it
_________________
I feel the need for speed and to perform dirt deeds

THE PUNISHER

Thanks Third rock for the heads up on this

Toystoretom

Your pics are a bit blurry but from your description it sounds like you modified the Idle speed control stepper motor. If you look in there a little closer you will see the throttle stop screw. Adjust that... don't use the stepper motor. It will run exactly where you want it to (700rpms, 800rpms, 900rpms... where ever you set it and like it) and if you adjust the primary throttle position potentiometer afterwards (to .6 volts) it will run like a charm. Just look at my "Fix" instructions...

http://www.triumphrat.net/modules.ph...40310&forum=28

But... good job if you ask me... you tried something and it works. You can now be a Triumph engineer..

Sidecar Flip

Tom:

Honestly, I don't know if I have an idle problem or not, but before I took the Rocket in for it's 500 mile whatever, it stalled twice at stoplights. It just quit, stopped died. It started right up but it was somewhat embarassing. When I took it in I told the service writer what happened and when I got it back it said on the worksheet that they balanced the throttles and did all the other items on the checkoff list (which I believe they did as this dealer is first class). No stalling problems now and it actually seems to run much better not that it didn't run good to begin with.

One question I do have is whether other's, you included, notice that the final drive whines. Mine does, always has and there seems to be a bit of slop in the drivetrain which is real apparent when you go from positive throttle to neutral throttle while rolling down the road at speed. On a rough road (lots in Michigan), it can be hard to modulate the throttle to maintain a steady speed due to the perceived slop in the drive. Is this just me or is it inherent in the bikes nature. My other Triumph seems tight in the final drive and transmission though it's a chain drive. The whine is most apparent in the coast throttle position. Power applied, there is no whine, decelleration, no whine. I'm wondering if the pinion pre-load is incorrect. In a normal automotive (Hotchkiss) ring and pinion drive, if the pre-load isn't right, it can be noisy and cause premature gear wear.

Comments welcome

Toystoretom

My final drive doesn't whine. These rear ends really are somewhat similar to car rear ends and your clearance on your pinion may be a little large (or loose, depending on how you look at it).

The new trend in cars (and especially large trucks) is to set these up looser than you would have back in the old days... it helps to cut friction loss. But... it also whines and sometimes is even clunky. I just looked in the service manual and there seems to be no provision to adjust the play on that. I do remeber that the bikes that had the final drive recall recieved a new final drive because the nut holding the bevel gear is on with so much torque that the dealers didn't have the proper tools to remove it or reinstall it.

I would check the lube in your final drive. I changed mine once and it doesn't take very much lube at all, if you leaked just a little somewhere your final drive would be dry... we don't want that...

Baggage1

Sidecar Flip,I seem to have the same whine that you decsribe and can roll a little back and forth in gear.Most noticable in 5th at low speed.Hasn't gotten worse or any better and just figure it's one more of an orchestra of noises unexplained.Kind of reminds me of an old pick-up rear end whine.Think I'd whine too after what I put her thru.

Sidecar Flip

Tom:

I see the shop manual calls for a synthetic oil. What did you use and would 85-140 Shell Spirax GL5 be okay? I have acess to synthetic hypoid oil in the shop but I have 85-140 Spirax in 5 gallon pails here at home.

vonbonds

Why not put down a category that says "No problems".