For what it's worth here's how I fiited Raask rearsets:

The gearchange side is self explanatory - the brake is not. The quality instructions that are supplied with the kit consist of a badly photocopied picture of similar rearsets fitted to a speed triple; not much use. So in steps here we go:

1. Gather a supply of washers, bolts and nuts in addition to those supplied with the kit.
2. Open the packet and marvel at the levers that appear to have been made from chocolate wrappers - rue the pice you paid for said quality item.
3. Throw away the 'instructions' - don't waste a minute of your life in reading them
4. Loosely assemble the footrest as follows (from outsde in):
   • Footrest
   • Brake lever
   • Thick washer
   • Spring with tang located in hole in the side of the thick washer
   • Footrest bracket
   • Bolt
5. The two thick black spacers go between the assembled rest and the bike. The bracket screws into the holes vacated by the bars that carry the original foot controls
6. Loosely screw the assembled rest to your bike, don't forget the spacer - see picture
7. Rotate the rest and screw in other bolt, spacer again - tighten both bolts
8. The short bracket supplied is used to mount the master cylinder - the bolts are fitted through from the engine side so this assembly needs doing off the bike. It's mounted by bolt used to hold the sump
9. Once the master cylinder is fitted you'll get an idea of the angle your pedal needs to be at - rotate the pedal with the return spring looped on the underside until the pedal is at about 20 degrees from horizontal.
10. Tighten the bolt holding the pedal assembly ensuring nothing slips round and that the footrest is held horizontal.
11. Check that the brake pedal is free - I had to grind a few thou of the brake lever and polish the inside with emery cloth.
12. Connect the brake lever to the master cylinder - it won't be true unless you use some of the washers and spacers from Step 1 to align everything; it's a neater job if you pad out the bracket holding the master cylinder
13. Connect the braided hose supplied - connect the old reservoir and fill to assist in bleeding the brake.
14. Bleed the brake until no fluid is left in the reservoir - reove reservoir and cap the hose with the plug supplied.
15. Fasten the hose out of the way ensuring it is well away from the exhaust pipe - this is an area I intend to improve on I may try inverting the master cylinder and taking a longer length of hose up behind the right hand side panel and into the airbox
16. Have a cup of tea and admire the clean results

Job jobbed - as mentioned the left hand side is self explanatory but you will need to bray the wee deeley on side prop up out of the way otherwise your foot will foul it.

All in all I love the extra comfort and the clean look but hate the quality of the levers. To that end I have ordered a set of CNC machined rearsets for a crotch rocket and intend to mount those using the Raask brackets. To be fair it appears as if two different arms of the factory were involved in the design - the levers are shabby yet the brackets fit a treat. The control rods have standard threads such that as you twist the rod as it runs off the lever it runs up the control arm. The net effect is that you cannot adjust the controls by spinning the connecting rod - you have to remove one end, adjust and then re-connect. The brackets are sturdy and fit the bike well.

On balance I'd say that they're not worth the money - if at all possible I'd say just by the brackets and rig up a plate to get some quality rearsets fitted. Once I've done that I'll tell you how I did it... it can't be much harder than fitting this kit!

Raask should supply you that set free for providing correct instructions and photos..

TTS are about to start doing rear sets for the rocket , with molti adjustment for footpegs for ' fine tuning '

Thanks for sharing the How-To.

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There is no replacement for displacement.